Smok Osub 80w Baby Kit Review –Compact size and Strong Power!

Today I will review a new Smok kit–OSUB 80w Baby Kit.

As you all know, Smok brand has released a large quantity of vaping devices, from 50w to 300w, a dazzling array. Then what unique experience this kit will bring to us. Next we will begin the review.

First, let’s take a look at the package. Obviously, the picture on the box shows the color of this kit in my hand–purple. No need to mention the trademark at the top left corner and the kit name below the picture.

At the back of the box, there are some basic information and warning words, and the package list. This will be mentioned in the following text.

When you tear open the plastic film outside of the box mod, you will see the Smok-styled package– black hat box and on the box you can see the trademark of Smok. When you open the lid, you will see the purple-colored mod on the upper layer made of foam. And there is a stray cord attached at the upper layer for the convenience that the user can drag it out.

Take out the items inside of the box, you will see the packing list including OSUB 80w, TFV8 baby tank, a spare coil, o-rings, a USB cable, an instruction book, battery warning card. It’s a little of pity that there is no spare glass tube.

From the battery warning card and the instruction book, you can see this kit is mostly for the new vapers.

The top cap of the pre-installed TFV8 baby atomizer is not fixed by the thread but the hinge. This makes the refilling more easy with no worry to drop or lose the top cap. You just need to screw open it and then do the refilling. Such top cap has another strengths, that is, it produces very slight intensity of pressure, thus alleviating the leaking problem at the coil.

The pre-installed coil and the spare coil are both dual-coils of 0.4Ω. On the surface of the coil, you can see the applicable wattage ranging from 40-80w, and the optimum wattage ranges from 55 to 65w. In actual use, I suggest you set the wattage according to your actual taste, after all, the features of every type of liquid are different.

On the front face of the box mod, there is the screen, “+”-”buttons, USB port and the trademark of Smok. The fire button is on the side face which is designed for the first web to hold. The actual contact point of the fire button is at the end that is close to the screen. The design that takes the other end that close to the trademark as a pivot, and the overall firing structure as a lever makes the firing more convenient and more labor-saving, and brings a very direct hand feel feedback. The mod is pretty compact and the weight is also at a medium level, convenient for carrying around.

At the bottom of the back face, there is printed with its belonging series-OSUB, the adapted battery–18650 battery and the maximum wattage and the controlling mode–80w TC.y cover at the bottom of the box mod is a highlight of this mod. You can close the battery cover by just pressing the battery cover. The hand feel feedback is pretty good without lose closing.


It benefits from the spring setting at the connection part of the battery cover. You just need to move the black switch with your fingernails. The battery cover will pop up.Very humanistic! No need to use great efforts to open it with your fingernails.

Compared OSUB 80w Baby Kit with a pack of tissue, you will find this box mod is pretty tiny and compact, easy to carry around. It’s more easier to put it into your pocket than a pack of tissue.

Even though it’s in a compact size and powered by only one battery, but during the time when I’m using it, I don’t feel the battery is in weak power or the battery powers up with delay. With a full charge, it can last for a whole working day. Unless you loaf on your job frequently for vaping, there is absolutely no pressure for the mod to last for a whole day.

In general, OSUB 80w Baby Kit is a kit mostly for the new vapers. The matched TFV8 baby tank can produce excellent taste and huge vapor. The refilling structure is pretty convenient. The pre-installed coil and the spare coil are sturdy enough to last for a pretty long time.

The mod can support a maximum wattage of 80w, making it fit for most DIY atomizer and heating coils. The design of the battery cover and the switch is pretty humanistic and easy for operation and using. Though it is powered by only one battery, but it can last for a long enough time for a working day.

But there is no spare glass tube for replacement. The mod is in compact size, which is only suitable atomizers of 22mm diameter.

Based on the features of the product itself, OSUB 80W Baby Kit can be a pretty good choice for new vapers to move toward advanced level, but it’s not the best choice for the advanced vapers. For working day, Smok Osub 80w Baby Kit is absolutely enough to serve you!


Smok G-Priv Review—Full Sense of Science and Technology

Intro: With the rapid development of electric cigarette field, it is a trend that more and more advanced technologies will be applied to electronic cigarettes. The Smok G-Priv 220w Kit released by Smok is such a mod with a full sense of science and technology.

Since 2016, it seems that Ecig box mod is entering into the touch screen era. From the first emergence of  SMY TOUCH BOX 100W, the manufacturers began to develop box mods with big touch screen one after another, from Hell’s Gate Touch 200w to Laisimo L3 200w, then to Teslacigs Touch 150 TC and Sigelei T200. Recently, Smok has also released its own touch screen box mod. Today, I will give a review on this latest Smok G-Prive with touch screen.

The package of Smok G-Priv is simple but not simple. G-PRIV succeeds the kit line of Smok.  Apart from the box mod, it also comes with a TFV8 Big Baby atomizer which is preinstalled with a V8 baby-x4 coil (dual wires, dual-coil, 0.15Ω, 30-70w, best 45-60w). Besides, the content list also includes v8 baby-t6 coil (triple-coil 0.2Ω 40-130w best 70-90w), silicon rubber case, USB cable, spare glass tube, spare rings, instruction book, warranty card, warnings for using the battery.

The appearance of this box mod is very angular and it adopts the matching color of red and black. The front side is the touch screen of 2.4 inch, the frame of which is the chrome-plated.

As regard to the details, there are three pressure relief holes in willow leaf shape, and a USB port. The inner space of the pressure relief holes is very big which is better for the heat dissipation. The USB port supports for upgrading and charging.

On the side, there is an integrated button both for firing the mod and locking the screen. The fire button succeeds the style of H-PRIV, but it’s of better elasticity with comfortable hand feel. The screen-locking button is a highlight which can give the user a better operation experience.

The connector on the top is the commonly used 510 connector. It is processed with scratch-proof technique, but the scratch-proof plate does not protrude from the plane on the top. When you install the atomizer, the paint around the 510 connector will still be abraded. Surrounding the scratch-proof plate, there is a carved arc, which can ensure a no-gap connection between the mod and atomizer. The carbon-fiber plane on the battery cover is of excellent workmanship.

The OLED screen is covered by a protective film.

The battery cover and the mod body is connected by four strong magnets. The connection is so strong that it’s pretty hard to separate them. There are dual batteries and gold-plated electrodes inside of the battery compartment. The electrode posts are of medium elastic force.  It’s quite easy to take out and put in the battery. A piece of heating sticker is sticking on the back of the battery cover. The overall battery cover is made of metal material, thus it’s quite heavy. Moreover, the workmanship is pretty good.

The accessory silicone rubber case is pretty suitable. When this box mod puts on this “garment”, the original edge of the kit is hidden and it presents a pretty low-key style. The experience to operate the original kit and the kit in the case is almost the same. Obviously, Smok has made pretty much effort on it.

Let’s see the operation methods. If you use the button switch, you just press the fire button five times continuously to switch on and switch off the kit, and you press the fire button three times continuously to lock the kit.

Next, let’s talk about the touch-screen operation. This is the main interface displaying the wattage, namely the interface when you vape under the wattage mode. In the middle of the interface, it displays the current output wattage and the wattage output mode. At the bottom, the “PUFF” indicates the draws that you have taken in that day and the limited puff to be taken in that day. The three icons at the bottom from the left to right displays respectively the actual current, the actual voltage and the resistance. In the middle of the interface, there is a circle displaying the wattage and you can touch the two sides to adjust the output wattage.

When you install a new atomizer, an interface will appear as showed in the picture. Press “yes” to confirm the new resistance. The test of the resistance is pretty accurate. This function has an old problem, that is, it can not test out the replacement of the atomizer. You will need to screw out the atomizer and press the fire button to make the screen display testing atomizer, then you install the atomizer on the mod and step into the interface of confirmation. Press the arrow on the upper left of the main interface,  then you can step into the main menu interface (as showed in the picture) and choose the detailed setting catalogue according to your own needs.

Let’s take a look at the wattage setting interface. The “Effects” on the top is the choice of output mode under VW mode, which is the exclusive technique of Smok.  There are five gears under this mod, from weak to strong, Min, Soft, Norm, Hard, Max.  The effect of every gear is pretty obvious and it is a quite practical function.

Below it, there is a pull bar to adjust the wattage. You can make the adjustment by sliding the bar or pressing “+”and “-”. At the bottom, it is the activate button. By sliding it to the right, you can activate this mode.

Pictures above are the main menu and the interface for setting the TC mode. The difference of the main menu under TC mode and the VW mode is just that the “VW Mode” in the middle  is changed into “TC mode”, the mode is changed into “output wattage and heating material”.

On the detailed setting interface under TC mode, the first line is for choosing the heating materials, including SS, Ni and Ti. The second line is for preheating the wattage under TC mode.

The third line is for adjusting the TC curve. If the vaper doesn’t have relative knowledge, it’s better for the vaper not to make adjustment by himself. The fourth line is for adjusting the resistance and the adjustment range reaches +-0.05Ω. This function is a very good solution to the problem that the automatic testing resistance of some TC coils is not so accurate. It’s worth noting that this adjustment is also applicable to the wattage mode.

On the puff setting interface, the first line is the puffs that have already been taken, the second line is for setting the limit puff. If the number is 0, then there is no limit puff.  The way to adjust the limit puff is the same as the way to adjust the wattage. The third line is for resetting the daily puff.

On the details setting interface, the first line is the only  system identification code. The second line is the model of the mode and the system version. The third line is the screen timeout.  By pressing the arrow at the right, you can set it and the range is from 1.0s to 24.0s. The fourth line is for adjusting the time including year, month and day. The fifth line is for restoring the factory settings.

Let’s take a look at the configuration of this device. The difference between TFV8 Big Baby Tank and TFV8 BABY Tank is its tank capacity and the measurement. The tank capacity and measurement of Big Baby are both larger than those of Baby Tank, but the RBA cannot be in common use.

Metal material is used so much on the mod that when the batteries are installed in, the mod is pretty heavy. It is worth noting that this dual-battery mod can reach an output wattage of 220w. Let’s take a look at the actual effect.

Since the built-on atomizer (TFV8 Big Baby)is not very different to the TFV8 Baby, let’s just take a look at its effect. The picture above shows the vapor effect of the preinstalled v8 baby –x4 coil (dual coils twisted by dual wires 0.15Ω 30-70w) under 60w. The originality of the vapor is pretty good and the vapor is huge and dense.

The vapor produced by the v8 baby- t6 coil (triple coils 0.2Ω 40-130w optimum wattage 70-90w) is much huger than X4, the flavor is rich, but the density is lesser. When it’s used under Max mode at 130w, the liquid deflection is not quick enough thus causing burning of the coil.

In general, compared with TFV8 BABY Tank, this atomizer can store more liquid, thus enforcing the duration time of this “vapor beast”. But the connection of the drip tip is not the generally-used 510, which might not be so convenient for those vapers who is accustomed to changing drip tips. Its vapor production is nearly the same as that of TFV8 Baby Tank.

Let’s take a look at the wattage output testing. I used three mods, from left to right, they are ipv8, Wismec RX200W, smok G-priv.

Atomizer and its data: geometrical RDA Kanthal A1 coil, wire diameter 0.6mm, circle diameter 3.0mm, 6 circles, quadruple coils, 0.11Ω resistance.

The first two mods both use 200w wattage. G-Priv is under Max mode 200w wattage. You can clearly see the output of G-Priv is more violent and the vapor is much denser. Besides, when the mod was under testing, the chipset of the mod didn’t jump into the overheat protection mode.

We can say that the chipset used by Smok has a pretty good performance. There is no firing delay.  Under wattage mode, its chipset performs even better than the DNA 200 chipset. Its performance under TC mode does not have problem of the inaccuracy of temperature control that appeared in the past time.

Let’s make a summary.


  1. Combine supercar element with electronic cigarettes, giving it an appealing appearance.
  2. An integrated fire button enable the user to switch on it in more ways with more ease.
  3. The user interface (UI) of the touch screen is simple for operation and easy to understand.
  4. The lock button further facilitates the operation.
  5. The application of the silicone case can not only protect the mod but also change the appearance style of the overall mod largely.
  6. The resistance can be adjusted slightly, solving the problem that fixed resistance cannot make an optimum effect.
  7. The maximum violent output 220w is an actual wattage but not a fake value. Output is steady with no delay, even under TC mode.


  1. The anti-wear capacity of the mod is not good.
  2. The scratch-proof plate at the 510 connector does not play its role efficiently.
  3. The sensitivity of the touch screen is not so good as that of Smartphone.
  4. When replacing the atomizer or rebuild the coil, the screen doesn’t display the interface for choosing the new resistance.

To sum it up, except from some details, Smok G-Priv 200w Kit is actually pretty good. It has a pretty fashionable appearance with a full sense of science and technology. It has a violent output of 220w. Its TC effect is pretty steady. Its operation interface is pretty brief and intelligible. Most of the weaknesses can be solved by system upgrade later.

With more and more touch-screen mods being release, relative technologies are also improved day by day. With the development of mods, it will be a trend that the operation interface will be more brief and intelligible, the operation will be more handier, and the appearance will be more distinctive.

Best Seller:
ijoy captain pd270
lmc 200w box mod  

Official Website:



The package of Wotofo Serpent SMM RTA adopts the Wotofo-styled package, the colorful printing drawer-styled paper box.

But for this time, its box gives me a different feeling. It really looks like a box of cigarettes, doesn’t it? I really like this design, and the gorgeous colors are pretty charming.


When opening the lid, better to say when pulling out the box, the first thing you see is the Wotofo’s little card and the no-need-to-read instruction book of the atomizer.

My first impression when pulling out the box is “considerate manufacturer”. There a three glass tubes in total, among which, two are for replacement. The manufacturer is considerate, isn’t it?

In the main layer, there is a PEI drip tip, two replaceable glass tube and an atomizer.

When you take off the main layer, you will see a bag of cotton, a bag of spare rings and a screws,  a bag of heating wires and a screw driver.
When you install the drip tip onto the atomizer, they looks pretty coordinated with each other and the workmanship is also pretty nice. Some vapers might ask that what’s the difference between it and the ADVKEN CP RTA. Just take your time to read the content below.


The atomizer can be disassembled into 6 parts, including drip tip, top cap for filling, atomizer tube, glass tube, base and the air adjusting ring.

The edge of the drip tip is well processed and is very round. The heating insulation capacity of the PEI material is pretty good.

The pictures above shows its funnel-shaped inner wall, and the processing of the inner wall is pretty smooth. The best 510 drip tip with a big caliber that I have used so far can be discussed from several points below.

The first point is the height of the drip tip. The heights of many resin 510 drip tips are too low, resulting a bad mouth feeling. But, the height of Serpent SMM drip tip is very suitable. The Second is the thickness of the drip tip. It is neither too thin or too thick. The third is its funnel shape to prevent condensation. The fourth is the polishing of the drip tip, whether it is round and smooth.

On the external part of the top cap, there is an oblique angle. The processing of the edge is not very round and smooth. When you touch it slightly, it’s a little bit sharp but doesn’t influence the hand feeling.

The internal part of it is different to the top cap of other atomizers. There are three layers and two rings. The sealing is pretty good.

The atomizer tube is very average at my first sight. The “serpent smm” is carved on it and the polishing is also good. All in all, it’s very similar to the CP atomizer, but pay attention to the details.

First, look at picture 1, the arc of the rounded angle is considerably big, which is for the reflux condensation.

Second, look at picture 2, the height of the airflow tube is very short, which can expedite the vapor to enter into the mouth, retaining the temperature of the vapor and the taste of the liquid after vaporization.

Third, look at picture 3, there are two gathering designs. At the same time, the diameter of the air tube is smaller than the CP atomizer, so the vapor is more concentrated and the flavor is much denser.

The details above are the biggest difference between SMM and CP. Below are some other differences between SMM and CP.

The glass tube succeeds the consistent thickness and consistent rounded edge of Serpent series.

The base of Wotofo Serpent SMM is my favorite base among GTAs.

First, there are two electrode posts and four holes on the base. No matter you wind the coil in either direction, you can well install it.

Second, the cross-screwdriver is very good for using. (wear-resisting and easy for screwing)

Then, there are four outlets. Seemingly the air blows the coil from the side, actually, it’s not. We will talk about it later. Next, you can insert the cotton into the holes directly, no need to adjust the position as you might have to do on the CP atomizer, which is very easy for using.

At last, there is an air inlet hole at each side and the two holes are not connected, bringing a big space in the middle.

The designer makes a rational use of this space for reserving the liquid, making it different from many other RTAs and GTAs in the market.

Next, we can talk about the second difference between wotofo serpent smm rta and CP atomizer, that is, the way how the airflow blows the coil via the air inlets. The air inlet of CP is at the bottom and the airflow only blows the bottom of the coil. However, the airflow blows the coil of the Serpent SMM tridimentionally. By adjusting the coil, you can see the upper air inlet is facing the middle and the side of the coil. And the air inlet at the bottom is facing the bottom of the coil. That is to say, the coil gets blew by airflow from three directions. In this way, the taste will be better and the vaporized vapor will also increase.

The most direct embodiment is that the unit density of the vapor increases greatly. In fact, a few atomizers have adopted such an outlet design.

But I have to say, there is no such an atomizer of which the air inlet condensation is good enough by bottom inflow. Why is that? It’s because when you finish using the atomizer, the temperature of the coil is still high enough to vaporize the liquid and then the vapor will sink into the air hole thus forming the condensation.

Good news is that Serpent SMM RTA can well avoid it, since there is no air holes at the bottom. The air holes are on the side, and there is some distance between the air holes on the side and the bottom. When using the atomizer, if you shake the it, the condensation will touch the cotton at the ends, thus you will not see the condensation at the air inlets.

At the reverse side of the base, there is the gold-plated electrode and some information such as the Logo.

The inlet ring of this Wotofo Serpent SMM RTA is detachable. There are slots on it, thus it will not rotate 360-degree. At the same time, it can well help disassemble and clean the atomizer.


I believe many vapers have the CP atomizer. In the light of taste, Wotofo serpent SMM RTA is much denser than CP, the vapor is very rich and the reduction degree of the vapor is much higher.


  1. Creative design
  2. Excellent taste
  3. Much shorter than CP


  1. The base is hard to clean and the liquid tank below is hard to reach for cleaning.
  2. The resolution degree is very ordinary, similar to that of Merlin Mini.

Best Seller:
ijoy captain pd270
lmc 200w box mod 

Official website: 

Steel Vape Sebone Mech Mod Kit Review

Vapers who have had concerns on the Ecig Exhibition in Russia in the end of last year might know the good performance of Steel Vape at the event site. The  popularity degree of its Tailspin mod kit was so deep due to its high performance price ratio, accordingly, this product was completely sold out at that time, which brought a great deal of fans to the brand of Steel Vape. Recently, Steel Vape brand made its effort again to release a brand new mech mod named Steel Vape Sebone Mech Mod Kit.

Featured with appealing appearance, the Steel Vape Sebone Mech Mod Kit is consisted of two parts, RDA and mod. Its integrality is pretty strong that vapers would not like to tear themselves from it.

It is processed with stoving varnish technology and the carved dragon scald pattern on it is extremely lifelike.  It comes in multiple colors, silver, black, yellow, red and green. It’s comfortable to handle it and very pleasing to eyes.

In the light of its workmanship, you can hardly find any defects with its carved pattern. Every details of it is exquisite enough. In the light of its design, this mod is aimed at serving the vapers who like huge-vapor mech mods. Next, we will talk about its matched RDA.

The Sebone RDA is composed by a base and two different atomizer tubes. The integrated atomizer tube (tube with the drip tip)can be matched with 810 drip tip, while the open-typed atomizer tube can be matched with much bigger-sized drip tips.

The Steel Vape brand has also released matched drip tips with super big diameter, which can match its atomizer tube of 24mm and can be a good choice for the vapers who like dripping on the top.

There are two super big electrode posts on the RDA base that can lock various coils easily. Its oil tank is pretty deep for you to do the dripping. Together with the space inside of the tube, this atomizer is very suitable for fancy coils with low resistance and traditional coils with big wire diameters (0.6mm or above).

Next we will talk about the mech mod of this Sebone Kit.

The pretty pattern on the mod body gives it a force of friction in some degree, so that the mod is not slippery in hand. The color of the paints shows that the working procedures are kind of complicated and the effect of the color gradient is pretty good.

It is featured with a straight-through structure. By screwing the fire switch at the bottom, you can adapt the distance between the positive electrode and the positive pole of the battery. Take a careful look at the Sebone Mod that has been used for several days, electrical carbon content of the switch at the bottom is very little. When vape on it with a low resistance, the heat of the switch is well controlled.

To sum up, this Sebone Mech mod Kit released by Steelvape is pretty excellent. It’s finely shaped and the usage experience is also excellent as well. Its market price is very affordable. I believe that vapers who cares about the appearance, matching and performance price ratio will like this product pretty much.

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LMC 200W TC Box Mod (fabulous Versions) on Sale! Get 10% more Off+ Free Shipping!


Here comes the new version of LMC 200w box mod! Sold Exclusively at Urvapin now!

Limitless company is making great efforts to forge its products to be more stylish with good performance!

Since its debut in the ecig market, Limitless 200w box mod has received good fame due to its unique design of the replaceable plates. To satisfy the buds of different customers, Limitless company makes a second release with more fabulous versions. Various plates are available now at Urvapin!

Usage experience please refer to

Use coupon code 10 Urvapin to get 10% off on Limitless 200w box mod at Urvapin!

Shop it now! Free shipping all over the world!

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What is Mech Mod?

Mech mod (short for mechanical mod) has long been extolled as a vaping toy to the experienced vapers exclusively. Why is that? What is mech mod? Do you really know about it? Here I would like to talk about the mech mod with you guys.

Mech mod adopts the completely mechanical structure and is usually a cylinder. To make it easy, mech mod is a conductor for installing atomizer, battery compartment and a mechanical switch. The power supply capacity totally depends on the current voltage output.

In the light of 510 connector on the top, mech mods can be sorted into two parts:

  1. The 510 connector connects directly to the positive pole of the battery: There is no connection parts in the 510 connector. When you screw in the atomizer, the connecting point of the atomizer to the positive pole will connect directly to the positive pole of the battery.

The advantage of such structure lowers the length of the electric circuit and lowers the power consumption, making the current output more smooth (the so-called violent output) and the length of the mod much shorter.

The 510 connector connects indirectly to the positive pole of the battery: There is usually connecting parts in the 510 connector for conducting the electricity. When you screw in the atomizer into the 510 connector, the atomizer will connect the connecting parts first and then connect the positive pole by the connecting parts.

The advantage of such structure is its safety. Besides, it is of more compatibility to the atomizers and can match the atomizers with a elastic electrode at the bottom and lower the possibility of short-circuit starting directly from the 510 connector.


At the very beginning, the material of the mod is usually made of copper or brass. However, in recent two years, there appeared many mech mods made of many other materials, for example, space aluminum, stainless steel, titanium alloy pure silver and etc.

The different materials have a direct influence on the using mech mod. Since the electricity conductivity (namely the resistance) of different metals varies, the metal of high resistance will have a consumption when the current goes through.

Thus, here I will sort the metal in order based on their electricity conductivity for your reference: 1. Silver   2. Copper 3. Bronze  4. Aluminum  5. Stainless Steel  6. Titanium Alloy

B. Appearance

The diameter of the mech mods in the market can be roughly sorted into 22mm, 24mm, 29mm, 32mm. The most common ones are the 22mm and 24mms.

When the vaper is purchasing a mech mod for an atomizer, they should choose the mech mod of the same diameter as the atomizer. Or you will come into an embarrassing situation: look, he is holding a microphone!

However, the overall appearance is of various forms, such as the hollow shell, the twisted shell, painted shell, concave shell like a slender waist, changeable tube, resin tube, staypak tube. It is just countless!

The various appearance is the top reason why the vapers love mech mods so much. (Who would not like nice look!)

  1. Major parts and how to choose a mech mod

The structure of mech mod is truly simple. But what can best proves the manufacturing technique is the switch at the bottom.

The manufacturing technique of the switch at the bottom is one of the key factors to measure a mech mod. The structural design and the manufacturing technique determines the safety and using comfort level of the mech mod.

Personally, I think only a switch with the following features can be regarded as well designed, automatic-lock (concave design), comfortable elasticity, self-adaption spring for the battery (to ensure the battery to stay stable in the battery compartment and has a function of insulation), the contact of the battery negative pole is wide and flat with a round edge (to avoid the electric arc to break down the battery), easy for disassembling.

Apart from that, other factors to determine the good performance of a mech mod also include insulation design inside of the battery compartment and the pressure releasing holes (need enough space for air circulation ).

Before the explosion of 18650 battery, the liquid in the battery would boil and produce a large quantity of gases. When the gases erupts, you will also see the electric arc and sparks.

As the pressure in the battery becomes heavier, the speed of eruption cannot catch up with the growth of the inner pressure, thus, the battery explodes.

At this moment, if the mech mod is well sealed, the speed of the pressure accumulation and heating will be intensified (thermal energy accumulated), the battery will explode in advance. The pressure releasing holes are for releasing the gases erupted from the battery,  prolonging the time of explosion and giving the vapers a much longer reaction time ( to avoid danger).

The insulation processing inside of the battery compartment can avoid the using risks when the battery skin is broken accidentally.

D. How is the actual usage experience of the mech mod?

Then what is the special points of mech mod’s output? Why vapers are flocking to it?

From my experience, the degree of mech mod’s violent output is way too lower than that of the VV(variable voltage) mod. But the stability of its output is good for sure. Except that the voltage of the battery is descending continuously, the overall output of the battery is not fluctuated.

In the light of taste, it is smooth and soft with little uncomfortable feeling.

In summary, mech mod has always been thought as an exclusive vaping device only for the experienced vapers.  This is not true. If you want to use mech mod, you should have a good knowledge of it. After you have a good knowledge of its working principles,  then you can use the mech mod safely. Here I want to say: The mod will not explode, but the battery.

Let’s sum it up. The first point is the material. The lower the resistance, the better it will be. The second point is the switch. Check if its workmanship is excellent, if it’s convenient and comfortable for operation. Besides, you also need to check its safety and if it’s easy to be touched by mistake. Thirdly,  check if there are pressure releasing holes and insulation settings.

If a mech mod have all the advantages above, then it will be pretty safe mech mod with violent output.

If safety matters are paid attention, then any vapers can well hold this beautiful but dangerous vaping device.

Recently, Vgod has released its another mech mod named Vgod Elite Mech Mod.

It’s pretty a good choice for vapers who would like to try on mech mods.  With its spring-loaded switch, it’s pretty convenient for using.  Mind its diameter when you choose the atomizer for it!

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Aspire Breeze Review—A compact Kit for new or light vapers!

The most impressive advantage of Aspire products to me has always been their quality. For this time, the newly released Aspire Breeze AIO Starter Kit is of no exception. Let’s take a look at this all-in-one starter kit.

It’s made of aluminum alloy with solid quality. With its compact and ergonomic design, I’d really love to take it around.

In addition to its simplicity and good looking in design, Aspire is also made easy in its structure. After disassembling it, you can find that the complete detailed components include drip tip protective cap, drip tip, chimney unit and atomizer and built-in tank. The unique design of fire button is convenient for you to feel it.

It’s quite easy to vape on it, but before it, you need to get off the drip tip protective cap. One of the points that makes it different to the other kit is that when you vape on it, you don’t have to press the fire button, and you can take your draw directly. But if you are a vapor-chaser, then you press the fire button to produce more vapor with much speed.

To fill in the tank, you will need to pull the drip tip off and then the coil. Don’t pull the coil directly. If you check the drip tip carefully, you will find there is a little metal bar at the bottom of it. Insert the metal bar into the slots of the coil and screw it, then pull the coil out to refill it. Mind the red line when you do the refilling! Don’t overfill the tank but just to the red line. The glass window of the tank is pretty convenience for you to check the liquid.

When you press the fire button, the battery starts to drain and the color of the led light in the glass window will change according to the battery capacity. If your battery capacity is above 3.8v, the color will be purple (maybe blue and orange); when your battery capacity is between 3.4v and 3.8v, the color will be blue only; when your battery capacity is below 3.4v, the color will be orange only, and if you press the fire button or take a direct draw, the light will flash several times in orange to remind you to charge your battery. Aspire Breeze kit comes with an exclusive charging dock(will be in stock soon). When the charger is connected by the micro-USB to the power source, its left indicator will be lighted in red color  and when you put the Aspire Breeze onto the charger, it will start to charge directly. Pay attention not to put the kit in a reverse way.

Personally, the automatic draw function without pressing the fire button is convenient for vaping. And with its 2ml juice tank and 650mah battery capacity, this Aspire Breeze AIO Kit is designed more for the new vapers or light vapers. One defective design is its round bottom. With it, you can hardly erect it on a horizontal plane and it will easily fall thus spoiling the liquid when do the filling. Any way, if you are a smart vaper, you can solve this problem with some objects, for example, the charging dock.

If you are a new or light vaper looking for a device to try on, Aspire Breeze AIO Starter Kit will be the best choice. It comes in four colors, red, blue, grey and black. Carry it around and vape on!

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Smoant Battlestar RDTA Review

Check this review out to know how does the innovative Smoant Battlestar RDTA perform!

As the last category of atomizers, RDTA combines the strengths of RDA and RTA. Though its structure is brand new with innovations, the early techniques and experiences are under developing with critical defects, thus indirectly restricting its quantity in the market. After a while, several manufacturers released RDTA again. Then how has this Smoant Battlestar RDTA got rid of these critical defects? Move forward!

The atomizer we are going to talk about here has the same name as Smoant Battlestar Mod. It is the matched atomizer of Smoant Battlestar mod, even the colors are also the same. I don’t know if the manufacturer will release the Smoant Battlestar Kit.


It adopts the popular drawer-styled package and inside of it, it’s a square-shaped paper box. In the box, there is a tank, a glass tube and a pack of spare accessories.

Content List: Battlestar RDTA*1, Product Structure Card*1, Product certificate*1, spare glass tube *1, spare accessories pack*1 (4*spare screws, a set of rings, 1*screwdriver)


Its top cap and drip tip are made of black heat-insulation materials with yellow-colored atomizer tube. There are two air flow holes facing each other on the tube. Moreover, there is also printed with characters “Battlestar RDTA” on the tube, and on its opposite side, there is engraved with a skull pattern.


  1. Size: 24.55mm*38.5mm
  2. Capacity: 4.5ml
  3. Spacing width between the electrode posts: 17.5mm
  4. Material: 304 stainless steel+ quartz glass tube+ PEEK material
  5. Easy for cleaning and all the components can be disassembled.
  6. Adjustable airflow system

Below the atomizer tube, it is the e-liquid glass tube. There is printed with the unrecyclable sign “CE”.  The adjustable 510 electrode of this atomizer makes it suitable for all the mods with 510 connector.


It can be disassembled into 6 parts in details (excluding the electrode screws): drip tip, inflow adjustable cap, atomizer tube, filling ring, e-liquid glass tube, electrode deck and base.

–Disassembling Analysis–

The drip tip on the top is made of heat-insulation material and its insulation effect is excellent. The inner diameter of the drip tip is 11.5mm. Airflow can go through it enormously,  thus reducing the drawing resistance and increasing the flow rate of the air. Two rings on the drip tip ensures the sealing between the drip tip and top cap is tight enough.

The top cap is also made of heat-insulation material. The top of it is processed specially with six passivated file finishes, making its shape very similar to a dodecagon and the operation of adjusting the airflow hole much easier. Inside of the top cap, there is a dome design which can compress the air on the top in some degree and thus improving the flavor. At the lower part, there are two inflow holes on both of the two  inflow blades with which vapers can experience a dense flavor of small inflow without need to do precise operation.

The carved pattern on the atomizer tube is processed finely. Through testing by metal scratch, the wear resistance ability of the paint is pretty good and its workmanship is excellent. There is no obvious flaws on the glass tube.

The electrode base is in U shape with two posts and four holes. The base is cross-shaped with four U-shaped holes at both sides . Surrounding the base, there are the threads for installing the filling ring. Only after installing the filling ring, the U-shaped holes surrounding the electrode base can be closed, thus forming  the filling holes.

The glass tube is fixed by the filling ring and the base and is sealed by two L-shaped rings. When disassembling the filling ring, the tank will stay on the base steadily.

–Actual Operation–

Choose a wire of proper length to twist it into coils.

The electrode posts is featured with dual posts and four holes. In the situation that the coil is not long enough to reach the spacing distance of the two electrode posts,  for better installing the coils, you will need to bend the coil ends.

Use tools to bend the coil into the shape showed above (the tool I use is the handle part of the tweezers.)

Bend the coil preliminarily and then make measurement where to bend the coil.

Bend the coil after measurement.

Try to make sure you bend the two coils the same shape and length.

When finishing bending the coils, then you can bending them. From the picture above, you can see the spacing distance is just right. With the coil bent, you can install them easily and the adjustment of the coils also become much easier.

Some vaping friends keep asking how to adjust the coils when burning them.  My summary is in a few words, clamp, pull, lift, press, scratch and drag( dragging can help solving the problem of short-circuit)

After burning, then you install the cotton.

Choose cotton of proper thickness. Pinch one end tightly and thread it into the coil (note: if you feel big resistance when threading the cotton, you just stop there. Or you may snap the cotton, even worse the coil will be deformed heavily. What you should do is to make the cotton much thinner and then thread it into the coils)

Cut off the needless part of the cotton, especially the part that you have pinched tightly when threading it.

Make the cotton end loose. You can flip it and then use the point of the tweezers to prick the end.

Clam the cotton end with your tweezers and plug it into the  liquid-defecting  slot.

Make the cotton fluffy for better blocking the liquid deflecting holes.

Power on the mod and start vaping!

Problems found in using:

Since it’s a new tank, the top cap and the atomizer tube are connected too tightly and the damping is too strong, it’s pretty difficult to adjust the air normally. If you coat some liquid at the ring, it can relieve the tightness. After using for a while, the two parts will be running in gradually and can be easily for adjusting the air.

The filling ring is also very tightly connected. When you first disassemble it, you need to make efforts. Badly, I  have assembled it so tightly that I need to disassemble it with a tool. But I used a wrong tool that I crumbled the glass tube. Thus, when you assemble the filling ring, don’t assemble it too tightly, but just to the degree that can ensure good sealing.


This RDTA is surprisingly stable for using. After using it for several days, I didn’t find any critical problems. As regard to the taste, it’s just at a normal level as ordinary RDAs.

The operation of the this Batttlestar RDTA with dual-posts and four holes is pretty easy. The workmanship is excellent, the performance is stable, the taste is good. The colors and style completely match the Battlestar mod.

What attracts me most is the cheap price of it. $29.69!

If you are looking for a RDTA, or if you already have the Smoant Battlestar mod, Smoant Battlestar RDTA  couldn’t be a better choice.

Limitless Gold RDTA Review—Replaceable Deck

Limitless Gold RDTA is the newest tank released by Limitless company.

Limitless company is a Canadian manufacturer and used to be a partner of iJoy  the Chinese brand. But at present, they have become two separate companies. Limitless Gold RDTA, designed exclusively by Limitless company, is the upgraded version of the previous Limitless RDTA tank.

When it comes to RDTA, some new users might not know it well. RDTA is shorted for Rebuildable Dripping Tank Atomizer, meaning that it’s a dripping tank.

Before I give the demonstration of Limitless Gold RDTA, I’d like to talk about the RDTA category.

As the latest atomizer category, RDTA, featuring both the unique flavor of dripping atomizers and the storage function of tanks, has attracted great attention from the vaping group.

When it emerged in the market firstly, it received great response. But the hot wave decreased soon in a short time. The reason of this phenomenon is due to its incomplete structural design on its first emergence. Oil leaking, complex structure, inconvenience for installation and cleaning, were the factors that constrained its development.

In 2017, after long silence, RDTA appeared in the market again with the problems above optimized.

Structure Decomposition

Generally, the structure of RDTA from top to bottom is drip tip (might be integrated with top cap), atomizer cap, atomization warehouse (might be integrated with top cap and drip tip), electrode plate, filling ring (might be integrated with electrode plate), oil tube (normally glass material), 510 electrode plate.

The upper part of RDTA has no difference to the RDA. The electrode plate of the two categories are both wrapped by atomization warehouse.  But the RDTA has an additional part— the oil tank.

Structure Details

The atomization warehouse usually wraps the whole electrode plate, including most part of the filling ring. Such design, in one aspect, it’s for the appearance; in the other aspect, it’s for sealing the filling hole (the early RDTA leaked because the filling ring is not sealed tightly thus leading to decompression of the oil tank).

Generally, RDTA is structured with U-shaped dual-post four-hole electrode posts. Also, there are also designs of presser-styled electrodes and non-electrode. After all, these different kinds of electrodes come from the existing electrode posts types of RDA, which can bring simple and convenient coil building experience.

The wicking of RDTA is different to that of RDA. You cannot just put the cotton end into the bottom of the oil tank to lead the oil to the coil. If you operate like this, the oil-defecting distance will be too long. After half tank of the oil has been finished, the oil defecting speed will become slower. Also, the oil in the cotton cannot be deflected completely and is difficult to deal with.

We treat the oil tank of RDTA as a temporary oil tank. Every time when you vape, the atomizer will be slanted, then the oil will be deflected into the cotton. But when the left oil in the oil tank is very little, if you invert the atomizer, the oil can still be deflected into the cotton thus to the coil.

Thus, I suggest vapers can leave each of the cotton end about 1 cm longer than that of the RDA when you do the wicking. This is not only pleasing to the eyes, but also will not waste too much oil, and the operation is much simpler.

OK, hope you guys have had a good knowledge of RDTA.

My first sight at Limitless RDTA tank, I was attracted by its gold pin in the tank.  The tank has a juice capacity of 4.75ml which is big for a RDTA.

The drip tip and the atomizer cap are an integrated part. By screwing it off, the gold plated deck comes to your eyesight. It is absolutely a unique design and the deck is replaceable with two options. With the replaceable decks, you can have different vaping experience.

It has a 25mm base with a unique bottom airflow design that shoots the air directly under the coils. It also features a top adjustable airflow control with Limitless triangles as your airflow slots.

To best match Limitless Gold RDTA , I suggest the Tesla Nano 120w box modLimitless Arms Race 200w and  iJoy Captain PD270 234W.

How to Clean Fancy Coils –Coil Maintenance!

How to clean fancy coils? Have you ever had a problem to do the coil maintenance? Or do you just throw the burnt coils away? That’s too wasteful!

Fancy coils (also understood as twisted coils or intertwined coils) are intertwined by multiple heating wires. The heating area of it is larger than the ordinary coils, thus no matter the flavor or vapor, they are superior to the ordinary coils.

With the advancement of e-cigarette industry, heating wires made of various material have emerged in the market. The fancy coils, intertwined by heating wires, known as finished fancy coils, can bring much convenience to vapers who like fancy coils.

After vaping for several days, there is always accumulative carbons adhered to the coils. It not only looks gross, but also influences the taste. When you vape on it, you will taste a burnt flavor unavoidably. On seeing this, vapers would wash the coils and change the cotton.

In fact, there are lots of points that we need to pay attention when we wash the fancy coils. Here I will give a simple elaboration on it.

The picture above shows the triple-wired Clapton fancy coils made of NI80 material that has been used for 4 days and are not cleaned.  It’s easy to see that there are lots of accumulative carbons on the coil and the outside of the coils is blacked obviously.

When I vape with it, the burnt flavor is pungent. Of course, this picture is just for this test. In daily use, I suggest you guys to clean your coils and change the cotton every one or two days.

The accumulative carbons might be blasted away because of the high temperature and then adhere to the inner wall of the atomizer.

After removing the cotton, we install the tank onto the box mod, just like what we do when burning coils.  Then we adjust the voltage to 3.0V.

Don’t adjust the wattage too high. If the heating temperature goes too high, the accumulative carbons will be blasted away and burn the vaper’s hand, even worse to melt the coils.

The strong burnt flavor you smell when you heat the coils is caused by the accumulative carbons on the coils.

When the coils are burnt like a coal, you can easily see the accumulative carbons adhered to the coils just like scabs.

When the coils are burnt to red, you can stop pressing the fire button and then put the coils into the warm water (40-60°). Attention,  don’t wet the mod.

Please remember that don’t power it. Don’t power it! Don’t power it! Or the coils will be short-circuited and will melt in the water.

Then why should we use warm water?

In fact, the process that you put the burning coils into water to cool them is called “quenching”.

If the temperature difference between the water and the coils are too big, the coils will be embrittled. That is to say the coils will be easily broken.

Again, why should we use warm water? The reason is the temperature of the water will have a direct influence on the life span of the coils.

After repeating the process “quenching” several times, you will see there are grains of carbons in the water.

Then, you can use the vape brush to clean the coils. With the vape brush, you can clean away the accumulative carbons between the wires.

The brush part of such brush is normally made of stainless steel or brass.

Coil Maintenance

When we wash and brush the coils, we should take into consideration the following points.

  1. We should brush the coils softly but not too hard.

The outer wire of the coil is always very thin. If we brush it too hard, the outer wire will be easily damaged.

  1. When we do the brush, we should brush it in one direction but not back and forth over and over again. I usually brush from the left to the right and then from top to the bottom. If you brush the coils back and forth over and over again, you will disorganize the wires intertwined with complicated process and enlarge the gap between the outer wires.

Later, we can disassemble the tank into parts and put them into the ultrasonic cleaner to clean them. In this way, the dirt in the tank will be all cleaned out.

The last step, after we air-dry the tank then we can install it onto the box mod and burn the coils to make adjustment. Then let the coils cool to the room temperature.

This step is not only to adjust the coils and see if the coils are heated evenly, it also has the advantage of “tempering”, which can improve the performance and life span of the coils.

Let’s make a comparison between the coils before cleaning and after cleaning.

In fact, when you use fancy coils, you might as well to choose the oil of low sweetness and good quality. In this way, the accumulative carbons can be reduced directly.

Fancy coils can bring vapers with high-qualified vaping experience, but because of the expensive materials and the complex intertwining work, the price of fancy coils are far more expensive than ordinary coils. When we use fancy coil, we should know how to do the daily cleaning and maintenance.

Just like the car maintenance, we should not only have a good taste on cars but also know how to maintain them. If we do the coil maintenance properly, we cannot only prolong the life span of coils,  but also bring their good performance into full play, accordingly, bring us better vaping experience.

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