The most impressive advantage of Aspire products to me has always been their quality. For this time, the newly released Aspire Breeze AIO Starter Kit is of no exception. Let’s take a look at this all-in-one starter kit.
It’s made of aluminum alloy with solid quality. With its compact and ergonomic design, I’d really love to take it around.
In addition to its simplicity and good looking in design, Aspire is also made easy in its structure. After disassembling it, you can find that the complete detailed components include drip tip protective cap, drip tip, chimney unit and atomizer and built-in tank. The unique design of fire button is convenient for you to feel it.
It’s quite easy to vape on it, but before it, you need to get off the drip tip protective cap. One of the points that makes it different to the other kit is that when you vape on it, you don’t have to press the fire button, and you can take your draw directly. But if you are a vapor-chaser, then you press the fire button to produce more vapor with much speed.
To fill in the tank, you will need to pull the drip tip off and then the coil. Don’t pull the coil directly. If you check the drip tip carefully, you will find there is a little metal bar at the bottom of it. Insert the metal bar into the slots of the coil and screw it, then pull the coil out to refill it. Mind the red line when you do the refilling! Don’t overfill the tank but just to the red line. The glass window of the tank is pretty convenience for you to check the liquid.
When you press the fire button, the battery starts to drain and the color of the led light in the glass window will change according to the battery capacity. If your battery capacity is above 3.8v, the color will be purple (maybe blue and orange); when your battery capacity is between 3.4v and 3.8v, the color will be blue only; when your battery capacity is below 3.4v, the color will be orange only, and if you press the fire button or take a direct draw, the light will flash several times in orange to remind you to charge your battery. Aspire Breeze kit comes with an exclusive charging dock(will be in stock soon). When the charger is connected by the micro-USB to the power source, its left indicator will be lighted in red color and when you put the Aspire Breeze onto the charger, it will start to charge directly. Pay attention not to put the kit in a reverse way.
Personally, the automatic draw function without pressing the fire button is convenient for vaping. And with its 2ml juice tank and 650mah battery capacity, this Aspire Breeze AIO Kit is designed more for the new vapers or light vapers. One defective design is its round bottom. With it, you can hardly erect it on a horizontal plane and it will easily fall thus spoiling the liquid when do the filling. Any way, if you are a smart vaper, you can solve this problem with some objects, for example, the charging dock.
If you are a new or light vaper looking for a device to try on, Aspire Breeze AIO Starter Kit will be the best choice. It comes in four colors, red, blue, grey and black. Carry it around and vape on!
As the last category of atomizers, RDTA combines the strengths of RDA and RTA. Though its structure is brand new with innovations, the early techniques and experiences are under developing with critical defects, thus indirectly restricting its quantity in the market. After a while, several manufacturers released RDTA again. Then how has this Smoant Battlestar RDTA got rid of these critical defects? Move forward!
The atomizer we are going to talk about here has the same name as Smoant Battlestar Mod. It is the matched atomizer of Smoant Battlestar mod, even the colors are also the same. I don’t know if the manufacturer will release the Smoant Battlestar Kit.
It adopts the popular drawer-styled package and inside of it, it’s a square-shaped paper box. In the box, there is a tank, a glass tube and a pack of spare accessories.
Content List: Battlestar RDTA*1, Product Structure Card*1, Product certificate*1, spare glass tube *1, spare accessories pack*1 (4*spare screws, a set of rings, 1*screwdriver)
Its top cap and drip tip are made of black heat-insulation materials with yellow-colored atomizer tube. There are two air flow holes facing each other on the tube. Moreover, there is also printed with characters “Battlestar RDTA” on the tube, and on its opposite side, there is engraved with a skull pattern.
Spacing width between the electrode posts: 17.5mm
Material: 304 stainless steel+ quartz glass tube+ PEEK material
Easy for cleaning and all the components can be disassembled.
Adjustable airflow system
Below the atomizer tube, it is the e-liquid glass tube. There is printed with the unrecyclable sign “CE”. The adjustable 510 electrode of this atomizer makes it suitable for all the mods with 510 connector.
It can be disassembled into 6 parts in details (excluding the electrode screws): drip tip, inflow adjustable cap, atomizer tube, filling ring, e-liquid glass tube, electrode deck and base.
The drip tip on the top is made of heat-insulation material and its insulation effect is excellent. The inner diameter of the drip tip is 11.5mm. Airflow can go through it enormously, thus reducing the drawing resistance and increasing the flow rate of the air. Two rings on the drip tip ensures the sealing between the drip tip and top cap is tight enough.
The top cap is also made of heat-insulation material. The top of it is processed specially with six passivated file finishes, making its shape very similar to a dodecagon and the operation of adjusting the airflow hole much easier. Inside of the top cap, there is a dome design which can compress the air on the top in some degree and thus improving the flavor. At the lower part, there are two inflow holes on both of the two inflow blades with which vapers can experience a dense flavor of small inflow without need to do precise operation.
The carved pattern on the atomizer tube is processed finely. Through testing by metal scratch, the wear resistance ability of the paint is pretty good and its workmanship is excellent. There is no obvious flaws on the glass tube.
The electrode base is in U shape with two posts and four holes. The base is cross-shaped with four U-shaped holes at both sides . Surrounding the base, there are the threads for installing the filling ring. Only after installing the filling ring, the U-shaped holes surrounding the electrode base can be closed, thus forming the filling holes.
The glass tube is fixed by the filling ring and the base and is sealed by two L-shaped rings. When disassembling the filling ring, the tank will stay on the base steadily.
Choose a wire of proper length to twist it into coils.
The electrode posts is featured with dual posts and four holes. In the situation that the coil is not long enough to reach the spacing distance of the two electrode posts, for better installing the coils, you will need to bend the coil ends.
Use tools to bend the coil into the shape showed above (the tool I use is the handle part of the tweezers.)
Bend the coil preliminarily and then make measurement where to bend the coil.
Bend the coil after measurement.
Try to make sure you bend the two coils the same shape and length.
When finishing bending the coils, then you can bending them. From the picture above, you can see the spacing distance is just right. With the coil bent, you can install them easily and the adjustment of the coils also become much easier.
Some vaping friends keep asking how to adjust the coils when burning them. My summary is in a few words, clamp, pull, lift, press, scratch and drag( dragging can help solving the problem of short-circuit)
After burning, then you install the cotton.
Choose cotton of proper thickness. Pinch one end tightly and thread it into the coil (note: if you feel big resistance when threading the cotton, you just stop there. Or you may snap the cotton, even worse the coil will be deformed heavily. What you should do is to make the cotton much thinner and then thread it into the coils)
Cut off the needless part of the cotton, especially the part that you have pinched tightly when threading it.
Make the cotton end loose. You can flip it and then use the point of the tweezers to prick the end.
Clam the cotton end with your tweezers and plug it into the liquid-defecting slot.
Make the cotton fluffy for better blocking the liquid deflecting holes.
Power on the mod and start vaping!
Problems found in using:
Since it’s a new tank, the top cap and the atomizer tube are connected too tightly and the damping is too strong, it’s pretty difficult to adjust the air normally. If you coat some liquid at the ring, it can relieve the tightness. After using for a while, the two parts will be running in gradually and can be easily for adjusting the air.
The filling ring is also very tightly connected. When you first disassemble it, you need to make efforts. Badly, I have assembled it so tightly that I need to disassemble it with a tool. But I used a wrong tool that I crumbled the glass tube. Thus, when you assemble the filling ring, don’t assemble it too tightly, but just to the degree that can ensure good sealing.
This RDTA is surprisingly stable for using. After using it for several days, I didn’t find any critical problems. As regard to the taste, it’s just at a normal level as ordinary RDAs.
The operation of the this Batttlestar RDTA with dual-posts and four holes is pretty easy. The workmanship is excellent, the performance is stable, the taste is good. The colors and style completely match the Battlestar mod.
What attracts me most is the cheap price of it. $29.69!
If you are looking for a RDTA, or if you already have the Smoant Battlestar mod, Smoant Battlestar RDTA couldn’t be a better choice.
Limitless company is a Canadian manufacturer and used to be a partner of iJoy the Chinese brand. But at present, they have become two separate companies. Limitless Gold RDTA, designed exclusively by Limitless company, is the upgraded version of the previous Limitless RDTA tank.
When it comes to RDTA, some new users might not know it well. RDTA is shorted for Rebuildable Dripping Tank Atomizer, meaning that it’s a dripping tank.
Before I give the demonstration of Limitless Gold RDTA, I’d like to talk about the RDTA category.
As the latest atomizer category, RDTA, featuring both the unique flavor of dripping atomizers and the storage function of tanks, has attracted great attention from the vaping group.
When it emerged in the market firstly, it received great response. But the hot wave decreased soon in a short time. The reason of this phenomenon is due to its incomplete structural design on its first emergence. Oil leaking, complex structure, inconvenience for installation and cleaning, were the factors that constrained its development.
In 2017, after long silence, RDTA appeared in the market again with the problems above optimized.
Generally, the structure of RDTA from top to bottom is drip tip (might be integrated with top cap), atomizer cap, atomization warehouse (might be integrated with top cap and drip tip), electrode plate, filling ring (might be integrated with electrode plate), oil tube (normally glass material), 510 electrode plate.
The upper part of RDTA has no difference to the RDA. The electrode plate of the two categories are both wrapped by atomization warehouse. But the RDTA has an additional part— the oil tank.
The atomization warehouse usually wraps the whole electrode plate, including most part of the filling ring. Such design, in one aspect, it’s for the appearance; in the other aspect, it’s for sealing the filling hole (the early RDTA leaked because the filling ring is not sealed tightly thus leading to decompression of the oil tank).
Generally, RDTA is structured with U-shaped dual-post four-hole electrode posts. Also, there are also designs of presser-styled electrodes and non-electrode. After all, these different kinds of electrodes come from the existing electrode posts types of RDA, which can bring simple and convenient coil building experience.
The wicking of RDTA is different to that of RDA. You cannot just put the cotton end into the bottom of the oil tank to lead the oil to the coil. If you operate like this, the oil-defecting distance will be too long. After half tank of the oil has been finished, the oil defecting speed will become slower. Also, the oil in the cotton cannot be deflected completely and is difficult to deal with.
We treat the oil tank of RDTA as a temporary oil tank. Every time when you vape, the atomizer will be slanted, then the oil will be deflected into the cotton. But when the left oil in the oil tank is very little, if you invert the atomizer, the oil can still be deflected into the cotton thus to the coil.
Thus, I suggest vapers can leave each of the cotton end about 1 cm longer than that of the RDA when you do the wicking. This is not only pleasing to the eyes, but also will not waste too much oil, and the operation is much simpler.
OK, hope you guys have had a good knowledge of RDTA.
My first sight at Limitless RDTA tank, I was attracted by its gold pin in the tank. The tank has a juice capacity of 4.75ml which is big for a RDTA.
The drip tip and the atomizer cap are an integrated part. By screwing it off, the gold plated deck comes to your eyesight. It is absolutely a unique design and the deck is replaceable with two options. With the replaceable decks, you can have different vaping experience.
It has a 25mm base with a unique bottom airflow design that shoots the air directly under the coils. It also features a top adjustable airflow control with Limitless triangles as your airflow slots.
How to clean fancy coils? Have you ever had a problem to do the coil maintenance? Or do you just throw the burnt coils away? That’s too wasteful!
Fancy coils (also understood as twisted coils or intertwined coils) are intertwined by multiple heating wires. The heating area of it is larger than the ordinary coils, thus no matter the flavor or vapor, they are superior to the ordinary coils.
With the advancement of e-cigarette industry, heating wires made of various material have emerged in the market. The fancy coils, intertwined by heating wires, known as finished fancy coils, can bring much convenience to vapers who like fancy coils.
After vaping for several days, there is always accumulative carbons adhered to the coils. It not only looks gross, but also influences the taste. When you vape on it, you will taste a burnt flavor unavoidably. On seeing this, vapers would wash the coils and change the cotton.
In fact, there are lots of points that we need to pay attention when we wash the fancy coils. Here I will give a simple elaboration on it.
The picture above shows the triple-wired Clapton fancy coils made of NI80 material that has been used for 4 days and are not cleaned. It’s easy to see that there are lots of accumulative carbons on the coil and the outside of the coils is blacked obviously.
When I vape with it, the burnt flavor is pungent. Of course, this picture is just for this test. In daily use, I suggest you guys to clean your coils and change the cotton every one or two days.
The accumulative carbons might be blasted away because of the high temperature and then adhere to the inner wall of the atomizer.
After removing the cotton, we install the tank onto the box mod, just like what we do when burning coils. Then we adjust the voltage to 3.0V.
Don’t adjust the wattage too high. If the heating temperature goes too high, the accumulative carbons will be blasted away and burn the vaper’s hand, even worse to melt the coils.
The strong burnt flavor you smell when you heat the coils is caused by the accumulative carbons on the coils.
When the coils are burnt like a coal, you can easily see the accumulative carbons adhered to the coils just like scabs.
When the coils are burnt to red, you can stop pressing the fire button and then put the coils into the warm water (40-60°). Attention, don’t wet the mod.
Please remember that don’t power it. Don’t power it! Don’t power it! Or the coils will be short-circuited and will melt in the water.
Then why should we use warm water?
In fact, the process that you put the burning coils into water to cool them is called “quenching”.
If the temperature difference between the water and the coils are too big, the coils will be embrittled. That is to say the coils will be easily broken.
Again, why should we use warm water? The reason is the temperature of the water will have a direct influence on the life span of the coils.
After repeating the process “quenching” several times, you will see there are grains of carbons in the water.
Then, you can use the vape brush to clean the coils. With the vape brush, you can clean away the accumulative carbons between the wires.
The brush part of such brush is normally made of stainless steel or brass.
When we wash and brush the coils, we should take into consideration the following points.
We should brush the coils softly but not too hard.
The outer wire of the coil is always very thin. If we brush it too hard, the outer wire will be easily damaged.
When we do the brush, we should brush it in one direction but not back and forth over and over again. I usually brush from the left to the right and then from top to the bottom. If you brush the coils back and forth over and over again, you will disorganize the wires intertwined with complicated process and enlarge the gap between the outer wires.
Later, we can disassemble the tank into parts and put them into the ultrasonic cleaner to clean them. In this way, the dirt in the tank will be all cleaned out.
The last step, after we air-dry the tank then we can install it onto the box mod and burn the coils to make adjustment. Then let the coils cool to the room temperature.
This step is not only to adjust the coils and see if the coils are heated evenly, it also has the advantage of “tempering”, which can improve the performance and life span of the coils.
Let’s make a comparison between the coils before cleaning and after cleaning.
In fact, when you use fancy coils, you might as well to choose the oil of low sweetness and good quality. In this way, the accumulative carbons can be reduced directly.
Fancy coils can bring vapers with high-qualified vaping experience, but because of the expensive materials and the complex intertwining work, the price of fancy coils are far more expensive than ordinary coils. When we use fancy coil, we should know how to do the daily cleaning and maintenance.
Just like the car maintenance, we should not only have a good taste on cars but also know how to maintain them. If we do the coil maintenance properly, we cannot only prolong the life span of coils, but also bring their good performance into full play, accordingly, bring us better vaping experience.
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From the appearance, Tesla Nano looks just like an old lighter at my first sight. Then it’s cool to find that there are actually two RDAs on it. Users can add two different juices of different flavors to enjoy a complex and unique taste on vaping.
The overall Tesla Biturbo Mech Dual RDA Starter Kit is constructed by the drip tip and top caps (together), two RDAs, and the battery compartment.
To build and burn the coil, you have to remove the top cap and trip tip. The two RDAs are both constructed by two electrodes and you build them just in the normal way separately. The most unique feature of this starter kit is that you can drip two different flavored juices to create a combined flavor.
On the side of the starter kit, it is the fire button. At the bottom of the kit, there are two black round buttons that you can control the two channels—meaning the two RDAs. There are two LED lights on the lower front side.
Except for vaping a complex combined flavor, you can also choose to vape two different pure flavor just by open or close either of the two RDAs.
To power the kit, you need dual 18650 batteries. Press the fire button five times consecutively, the kit will enter into the stand-by mode. By pressing the channel selection button A/B to open or close the channel A/B.
When channel A is opened, the LED A will be on and RDA A will work upon pressing the fire button; when channel A is closed, the LED A will be off and RDA A will not work upon pressing the fire button. When channel B is opened, the LED B will be on and RDA B will be on and RDA B will work upon pressing the fire button; when channel B is closed, the LED B will be off and RDA B will not work upon pressing the fire button.
Guys, please remember, safety is prior to vaping. Tesla Biturbo takes full consideration of safety. Four kinds of protections as below:
Over Puffing Protection: The device will be deactivated after continuous puffing of more than 10 seconds. The corresponding LED will flash for 8 times and the device will enter into the stand-by mode.
Reverse Connection Protection: If batteries are inserted incorrectly, the device will fail to power on and will prevent any damage to the chipset.
Low Voltage Alert: When the voltage drops below 7.5V, corresponding LED will flash for 15 times and the device will power off.
Atomizer Short-circuit Protection: When an atomizer short circuit occurs, corresponding LED will flash for 5 times rapidly and the device
Tesla Biturbo Mech Dual RDA Starter Kit Features & Spec: 1 or 2 RDAs Arbitrary Switch
Channel Selection Button
Dual 18650 Cells Setup
Connector Bridge For RDAs
Great Vapor Productions
Wide Bore Drip Tip
Airflow Control System
Enjoy Two Flavors Simultaneously Biturbo Mech Mod
Dimension: 52*26*107mm(starter kit) / 52*26*88mm(Mod)
Material:Zinc Alloy(Die Cast)
Cell Type: 2 Hi-drain 18650 cell(Discharging current should be above 30A)
Thread Type: 510 thread
Min resistance: 0.1Ohm(Single RDA)/0.2Ohm(Dual RDAs)
Input Voltage Range: 6.0V~8.4V
Standby Current: < 5uA
LED Indicator: Blue
Protections: Over puffing protection/ Reverse connection protection/ Atomizer short-circuit protection/ Low voltage alert. Biturbo Mech RDA
Adjustable Aiflow: Yes
After the release of Cheetah RDA, OBS had released its second version Cheetah II RDA. Really good looking!
Due to its dripping function, RDA is always of very small size with no tank. So is Cheetah II RDA. But it’s of very fashionable looking with two Cheetahs on the body of the RDA. It comes in 4 colors of black, jewelry blue, silver and gold, with two versions—Cheetah II and Cheetah II Mini (all called Cheetah II below).
By the way, if you have questions regarding the RBA, RDA, RTA, RDTA? Here is the answer.
Cheetah II RDA features a PEI Drip Tip which adopts PEI material, unbreakable, environmentally friendly, clean and durable. Just like other RDA tanks, its drip tip is so wide that you can drip directly from the drip tip. Or you can also take off the top cap to drip.
Unlike its predecessor Cheetah, Cheetah II changes the airflow hole from top to side and the air hit the wire closer. The Precise design of air circulation system conduces to concentrate the smoke and show the flavor.
It is officially said that all of OBS products have anti-counterfeit labels thus to protect consumer’s profit.
Cheetah II is very simply designed and is easy to detach and clean. For atomizers maintenance, I have write a relative article.
OBS Cheetah II and mini RDA Tank Features & Spec:
Filling: Drip e juice down directly from the drip tip
PEI Drip Tip: The drip tip adopts PEI material, unbreakable, environmentally friendly, clean and durable.
Internal Air Hole: Air flow adjustable.
Push Open Cover: Push Open the cover and drip down e juice.
External Air Hole: The air intake system, formed of the atomizer chamber space-tracking the heating wires’ cooling form, helps the air hit the wires precisely and efficiently.
OBS Cheetah II and mini RDA Tank Package:
1 * Cheetah II (Mini) tank
2 * Clapton Coil
1 * Allen Key
If you are a flavor chaser, OBS Cheetah II can be a very good choice, not only its fashionable looking but also its innovative design.
Is atomizer maintenance necessary? Do you clean your atomizers after vaping? The answer surely is yes! How to get rid of the oil smell in the atomizer? How to wash the atomizer? Any matters need attention?
How to clean atomizers in the daily use?
There are many ways to clean atomizers, for example, alcohol, clean water, ultrasonic cleaner and etc. Today I will share my special secret for cleaning atomizers with you. Preparation: baking soda, a bowl of clean water, tweezers , cleaning cloth and clean tissue.
Disassemble the atomizer into three main parts– top cap, oil tank and base. After that, then you disassemble the rings. If you are not sure if you can remember all the positions of the rings, you can put them away according to the order when you disassemble the rings. But please pay attention that don’t disassemble the small accessories in case that they might be lost in cleaning.
Based on the proportion of 1:20, blend baking soda and cool or warm water evenly. Put the atomizer without rings into the water and after 10 minutes, you will see the water becomes light yellow. At this time, you can stir the atomizers in the water to erase the impurity of the atomizers. Then get the atomizers out of water with a tweezers and put them into another container.
Wash the atomizers with clean water, and wipe the water on the atomizers with dry cloth or tissues, or let them dry in the open air.
Tip: baking soda can wipe off the impure flavor in the atomizers.
How to store the atomizers when you don’t use them?
The mainstream atomizers in the market are mainly made of 304 stainless steel and 316 stainless steel. How should we store them after using them?
Firstly, you need to clean the atomizers in the water. After cleaning, make sure the atomizers and rings are dry without water left in case that the atomizers get rusted. When assembling atomizers, you can smear the rings and the threads with a little bit of pure VG to avoid the threads from rusting and dead-locking and avoid the rings from weathering. Pure VG will not add impure flavor to the atomizers.
2 .How to prolong the life span of an atomizer?
An atomizer is composed of several metal parts. If you use it improperly for a long time and pay no attention to the details, problems can be easily emerged—screws getting scrapped, threads becoming smooth, leakage leading to scrapped rings, insulation spacer getting out of shape. How can we prolong the life span of an atomizer?
When building coils, we just need to lock the coil to a proper state, but don’t screw the screws way too tightly.
The smoothing of screw threads usually appears when we install it on the mod. Thus, when you do the installation, you should not use a brute force to screw the screws. You should joint the threads properly before you screw it.
Leakage is the main reason why we give up an atomizer. Before we throw it away, please build the coil again with all your heart. Make sure if it’s the problem of the structure of the atomizer, and then check if the rings can well seal the gaps.
If you burn the coils improperly, the overheat will lead the insulation spacer to be out of shape and thus be scrapped. In this case, we can shorten the burning time, or burn the coils discontinuously to cool the atomizer and ensure the completion of the insulation spacer.
How long is the life span of an atomizer?
How long is the life span of an atomizer? This is a question that I was asking when I was a newbie. I normally bought two pieces of atomizers of the same model for replacement. But later I found it was meaningless. The main parts of atomizers are made of metal and are very firm. The easily worn-out parts are the accessories, such as glass tube, ring, screws, threads, insulation spacer and so on. Most of atomizer packages include spare parts of these accessories.
Proper operation and maintenance will greatly prolong the life span of an atomizer.
Atomizers are sorted as the mechanical metal products. As long as we learn how to maintain them, you will find that you can own them for a pretty long time. As time goes by, the atomizers will be imprinted with the sign of aging, but how interesting is it to discover that!
I guess it’s a universal problem for our vaping friends to choose a proper ecig to take with when going out. The Dragon-Boat Festival of China is around the corner, and also brings this problem to me. Personally, for carrying around, portability is my first concern, but not the big functions that I may pay great attention when I am vaping in the office or at home. I have decided to take the Limitless Pulse Pod for the short-distance trip in the coming festival.
As shown in the picture, Limitless Pulse Pod System Starter Kit is a portable all-in-one device with a skinny body, totally different to those big ones. Put it in your pocket just like a pen!
Limitless Pulse Pod System Vape is small, but it’s perfectly configured. It is composed by a changeable pulse pod and a chargeable battery part (I may call it mod). The pulse pod has a juice capacity of 2ml, just like a cartridge.
The Pulse Pod is easy for refilling. You just disassemble the mouth piece, open the red plug and fill it with the juice bottle. Mind that there should be now left liquid outside of the tank. A thin needle tip bottle will be a good choice for filling the tank. As coils may be burnt too much and thus influence the flavor, the heater in the pod also needs to be changed. How often you change the pod depends on your personal vaping habit. It’s the similar question to how long does a limitless pulse pod last, thus the answer is the same.
Limitless Company is also considerate to release a separate pulse pod packexclusively for this kit. Three pieces in a pack and it’s quite easy to change the pod which you can see from the picture above.
The battery has a capacity of 380mah and it is rechargeable by a USB cable. The button on the center of the Pulse Pen allows you to change the color of the LED light system.
For the package, Limitless adopts its usual style—the hat box made of paper. On the front side of the box, there is the LOGO and the product name as well as the name of its cooperator PLY ROCK. Inside of the box, there is a Limitless Pulse Pod System Vape Pen, a Pod and a USB charger.
Tesla Invader 2/3 is the latest creation from Teslacigs Invader series. It has been upgraded entirely, no matter its performance or functions, they both have been improved largely. Of course, its appearance is also improved. The most special part of Tesla Invader 2/3 box mod is its setting of the battery scheme, which can switch between dual-battery system and triple-battery system.
The package succeeds Teslacigs’s style, adopting the hat box made of paper. In the front side there is printed the brand LOGO, name of the box mod, features of the box mod and the lateral view of box mod.
At the right side of the package box, there is the instruction picture showing how to change the battery. At the left side, there is printed the words “powerful & simplistic INVADER 2/3”. At the back side, there is the product instruction information. The most information surely is the anti-fake label.
The content of the package is also very simple. There is only one box mod, a piece of battery cover for dual-battery scheme, a manual, a drawstring of battery, warning card and certification (Supplementary Instruction, there is protective film both for the box mod and the battery cover.)
Under the triple-battery mode, the appearance is similar to most box mods that adopt triangle layout to batteries, which is accorded with the ergonomic design on appearance and has very nice hand feel. On its design of appearance, Tesla Invader 2/3 succeeds the style of Invader 3. It’s angular but is also featured with round curve. At both sides of the box mod, there is a “X”mark respectively, and at the lower part of the box mod, there is a piece of skin made of carbon fiber and the name Teslacigs.
The fire button is settled at the upper part of the front side. Such design is very convenient for users to find the position of the fire button and gain a more comfortable usage experience. Below it is the adjust plate of the potentiometer and LED light.
Under the dual-battery scheme, the size of the box mod is compressed largely, but the comfortable hand feel is by no means lowered (even improved slightly).
Let’s make a comparison between Invader 2/3 under dual –battery scheme and its predecessor Invader 3 (the size of Invader 3 is relatively smaller among dual-battery box mods). Apart from that it’s much thicker than Invader 3, its height and length are both smaller than Invader 3. Regarding the color, Invader 2/3 has more choices for color and the color matching of each box mod is proper.
In the manual, there is the information of the unit resistance 0.1Ω and the corresponding output wattages at different gears, but there is no detailed information of output voltages. Here I will show you the data that I have tested with instrument.
In the pictures, you can see the voltage values at 1/3//5 gears under triple-battery scheme, first gear-3.08v, second gear-3.46v, third gear-4.15v, fourth gear-5.59v, fifth gear 8.29v ( rough data.)
In the pictures above, there are the voltages at 1/3/5 gears under dual-battery scheme, first gear 3.07v, second gear 3.46v, third gear 4.27v, fourth gear 5.41v, fifth gear 8.06v (rough data.)
The workmanship of the battery covers in the package is pretty good, and at the two sides of the bottom, there are nine heat emission holes respectively. Inside of the battery cover, there are circuit connection points (the battery cover under triple-battery scheme is connected by the batteries ). When the battery cover is not closed completely, the box mod will not be energized.
Under triple-battery scheme, the connection points of the battery cover and the connection points of the battery both adopt the treatment of silver plating, adding the current conveyance rate and the antioxidant ability.
The lock for locking the battery cover and box mod is very carefully designed. The battery cover and the box mod is connected by a groove structure. At the bottom of the box mod is the positioning structure of the battery cover which can well fix the battery cover. The integrating degree of the groove is pretty high without loosening or shaking.
The workmanship inside of the compartment is also impeccable. The elastic force of the silver-plated connection points and the circuit connection points are both strong with comfortable operation experience.
The 510 connection point is upgraded with a bigger contacting area which can improve the current conveyance rate, but the firmness of the paint is not so satisfying.
I use the Geometry RDA tank to test the output, the data as below: Kanthal A1 coil, wire diameter 0.6, circle diameter 3, 6 circles, 4 coils and the resistance is 0.12Ω.
Pictures above are the output test situations under dual-battery scheme at 1/3/5 gear.
Pictures above are the output test situations under triple-battery scheme at 1/3/5 gear.
From the pictures above, we can see the difference between dual-battery scheme and triple-battery scheme. Under triple battery scheme, the output is obviously more fierce than that under dual-battery scheme. By comparison, we can know that this box mod has a relatively big limit to the current (after all, the wattage calculated by a 8.29V voltage and 0.12Ω resistance can reach a horrible value of 572wattage ).
The operation mode still succeeds the style of the Invader series—click 5 times continuously to turn on the box mod, and the LED display screen as well. The adjustment of output is also very easy and simple for using (Start from the lowest gear, if you think the output is too weak, you can adjust it to a higher degree; if you think the output is too fierce, you can adjust it to a lower degree.)
The adjustable voltage of this box mod is very user-friendly to the new players. With it, new players can control the time to adjust the coil when burning the coil.
If the paint can be much firmer with strong abrasion resistance ability.
The switch of the dual-battery and triple-battery is extremely easy. Users don’t have to disassemble the redundant battery on the battery cover, but just to change the battery cover.
Here I would like to revise a conception. We are used to call the VV box mod “semi-mech”box mod.
However, this is not always accurate. After all, at the very beginning, the semi-mech box mod was just added protective chipset on the mech structure, but was not really featured with the function to adjust the output voltage. Later, the box mod installed with potentiometer appeared and its voltage was adjustable.
But people are still accustomed to call it semi-mech mod. Actually, the voltage of it can be adjusted, so it’s not right to call it semi-mech box mod. The right way to call it is VV box mod.
To sum up, the output and workmanship of this box mod has made great improvements compared with its predecessor Invader. The only point needs to be improved is the paint.
On the other side, for those vapers who likes to DIY the appearance of the box mod, Tesla Invader 2/3 is a very good choice for them. The can easily erase the paint and then process the shell with customized treatment, making it more unique.
Personally, I like the box mods adopting potentiometer. They have the features such as fierce explosion, fast ignition, easy for adjustment. Thought it doesn’t has the TC function, it makes the best on the output voltage.
Personally, I like compact-sized ecig devices for the convenience to carry around. The Smok OSUB 80W baby mod has the smallest compact size among the mods with the same power and is more portable and light-weighted. The matched TFV8 baby tank has a 3ml juice capacity.
The Smok OSUB Baby 80W kit is the latest in the OSUB line. It uses a single 18650 battery instead of the internal battery which is different to the dual-battery feature of its precursors, the OSUB 40w and the original OSUB 80w. It can fire up to 80w and is featured with two modes—TC and VW. Temp Control mode includes Ni-TC, Ti-TC, SS-TC and TCR. The TC mode can enhance consistency and taste of every puff. The Wattage Mode is perfect for cloud chasing.
Smok OSUB TC 80w is featured with an OLED screen combining with entirely new operation interface. Vaping data showed on the screen includes VW/TC Mode, vaping effect, voltage, battery life, resistance value etc. Osub 80w Baby mod also provides multiple types of protections to safe guard against potential risks, such as intelligent atomizer recognition, short circuit protection, puff monitoring system, over-heating protection, 12 seconds cut-off, low battery warning.
The matched TFV8 Baby Tank is featured with top rotary fill system. Unlike the common refilling system, to refill the tank, you don’t have to screw off the top cap entirely. See picture above. Smok TFV8 Baby Tank has dual adjustable airflows at the base and it comes with a coil of 0.4 ohm which can be rated from 40-80w.
What are the features:
TFV8 Baby Tank:
Material: Stainless Steel
TFV8 Baby Tank Standard Edition: 3ml, Height:53mm, Diameter:22mm
TFV8 Baby Tank EU Edition: 2ml, Height:50mm, Diameter:22mm
OSUB 80W Baby Mod:
Material: Zinc Alloy
Power Range: 1.0-80W
Resistance Range: 0.1-3Ohm(VW Mode)/0.06-3Ohm(TC Mode)
What are in the package?
1 * OSUB 80W baby mod
1 * TFV8 baby Tank
1 * V8 baby-Q2 core(0.4Ohm dual coils)(pre-installed)
1 * V8 baby-Q2 core(0.4Ohm dual coils)
1 * User manual
1 * USB cable