FIRST IMPRESSION OUT OF THE BOX:
In the past, I have received a lot of Wotofo products. While the quality of the products was always pretty good, it was never really exceptional. First thing you notice when you open up the box of the Bravo is the fact that Wotofo seems to have upped their machining quality a bit. This is definitely one of the better-made Wotofo tanks that I have received. It’s apparent as soon as you put the RTA in your hand.
The Bravo does come in typical Wotofo packaging. We have a black and green box with a slide-out sleeve. Slide the sleeve off the box and on the right side is where the tank is located. On the left side of the foam insert, there are two spare glasses. One is a larger capacity bubble glass and the other is a replacement straight glass. There is also a Delrin 510 drip tip adapter.
Lift the foam insert and underneath, you will find an instruction manual, a card for a t-shirt giveaway, a black Phillips head screwdriver, and Wotofo’s famous comp wire bags. I don’t know how many comp wire bags Wotofo has bought, but it must be in the millions because this has basically become an industry joke already. Every spare part, every piece of cotton, every o’ring, and every coil, somehow winds up in a Wotofo comp wire bag.
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM:
The Bravo comes with a rubber insert inside the glass that makes it TPD compliant. The first thing you want to do is rip that thing out and throw it to the side. After that, you are definitely going to want to take off the straight glass and install the bubble glass that comes with the tank. I love all of these bubble glass options that have been coming out lately. It lets you expand the capacity without affecting the flavor because your mouth is not moving any further away from the coil. It’s a great idea and I hope a lot more manufacturers start using it.
The Bravo comes with an absolutely beautiful resin drip tip. The drip tips included with all of the different color tanks do match the tanks pretty well. It is a Goon or 510 compatible DT. I have tried some of my aftermarket drip tips and they do fit but some of them are a little bit on the loose side. The stock drip tip that comes with the Bravo does fit very nicely with no movement. The reason aftermarket Goon drip tips may fit a little loosely is because there is a step down around the DT opening. If one of your Goon drip tips is wider than the circumference of the step down, then you may not be able to push that aftermarket drip tip in all the way. It’s not a big deal but to be honest, I would have rather have seen the opening totally flat and level with the rest of the top cap. There is also a 510 drip tip adapter included in the package for those of you that like to run your traditional 510 drip tips.
The top cap on the Bravo is nice and thick. It has some absolutely beautiful knurling around the whole circumference of the top cap. This knurling is just fantastic because it really lets you get a good grip on the top cap in order to remove it. The threading on the interior of the top cap is buttery smooth and it really does not take a lot in order to secure the top cap down. Basically, a half a turn and the top cap is secure. So, even though there is not a lot of threading on the interior, the threading that is there, is extremely smooth, well machined, and it works very well.
The fill port cap, the chimney, and the barrel are all one piece. The fill port portion of the tank is recessed and there are two half circle shaped fill ports on either side of the cap. These fill ports are pretty massive and you should have no problem using any type of bottle on the market today in order to fill this tank. Even Bullnose juice bottles are not a problem. Below the fill ports, there is an o’ring that does a great job of securing the glass section to the tank.
The chimney on the Bravo is on the wide side and it is extremely short. It drops into a small barrel that has a conically shaped interior with a stepped up design towards the chimney. On the exterior of the barrel, there is some Bravo branding. Below the Bravo branding, there is some knurling on the bottom of the barrel. The barrel screws on to the base of the deck with some really smooth threading.
The glass section is held in place with the tension that is created between the fill port cap portion and the base. In your package, you will get 3 glass sections. If you run the straight glass with that rubber thing installed, the Bravo is TPD compliant and will only hold 2 mls of liquid. If you take the rubber thing out and just run the straight glass, you will be able to get 4 mls in the tank. If you take the straight glass off and install the bubble tank, then you will be able to get 6 ml’s into the tank. I prefer the bubble glass over them all, but it is really nice to have all those choices.
The base of the Bravo has the same exact knurling on the AFC that the top cap has. It also does a great job of giving you a good grip and the AFC is extremely easy to adjust while the tank is on a mod. The knurling on it is a big reason for that. Right above the knurling, there is an o’ring that the glass attaches to. The airflow slots are cyclops style and huge, however, they are extremely deceptive. They actually look a lot bigger than they really are. The air slots do not go all the way through the bottom of the base like a lot of RTA’s do. Instead, they are closed off in the middle and the airflow comes from the top interior of the Cyclops airflow slot. The airflow on it is good but it’s not as loose as the appearance of it would make you believe.
On the bottom of the base, there is some Bravo and Wotofo branding. There is also a gold plated 510 pin that is surrounded by an insulator ring. The threading around the 510 is actually very smooth and the 510 does protrude quite a bit. The base of the Bravo measures 25 mm in diameter and it is 48.9 mm high. It has sat flush on every mod I have used it on so far.
The deck is where the Bravo differentiates itself from a lot of RTA’s. Not in a big way but in a bunch subtle ways. It is an upside down clamp system that is controlled by two deck screws per clamp. Each inner deck screw on each post goes directly into the post closest to the center. The outer deck screws just go straight through the clamp. So, you have to be careful when you are unscrewing this deck, especially with the outer deck screws. Make sure you don’t unscrew them so much, that the clamp actually comes off the screw. The deck screws are Phillips head and of good quality. This is a two-post, one-terminal-per-post design.
The base of the deck is also very interesting. It is a GTA style deck that is lifted up off the bottom of the base just a little bit. It is enough to make it what I would consider a GTA style deck. It uses a gravity feed system that feeds your wicks from underneath the deck platform. On the deck platform, there are nicely sized, circular, wicking ports. In between both wicking ports is where you will find your air flow slot. The airflow slot is oval in shape but it is also beveled downward towards the center of the deck. It kind of makes sure that the airflow is up and underneath your coil. The slot is grabbing all the flavor from the bottom of the coil and you may even get some of the vapor from the lower side of the coil.
It’s an interesting deck and I really haven’t seen anything else like it before. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not groundbreaking or anything but it has a lot of little nuances that I have seen on other decks before, but not all of them combined on one atomizer. You can tell just by looking at the deck that a lot of time and thought went into it.
BUILDING AND WICKING:
Building on the Bravo is not exactly for a beginner but at the same time, it’s not too complicated either. I say it’s not a beginner deck because you do have to place your coils in there all at one time and then tighten the clamps system down. This is because each post only has one terminal. When you see a deck like this, you have a couple of choices that you can make. You can pre-cut your leads and then install your coils and tighten them down. You can also slap your coils in there, tighten them down, and then move them around a little bit in order to get a clear shot at clipping your leads. I tend to just put my coils in there and worry about clipping the leads after everything is tightened down. That is exactly what I did with the Bravo tank and I had no issues at all.
One side note about clamping your leads, you have to turn each of the four screws a little at a time. That is because you have two screws per clamp. If you turn each screw fully closed, one at a time, the clamp will close uneven and you will have a tough time closing the second deck screw. Best thing to do is take your time and close all four deck screws a little at a time.
Because of the size of the terminals, you can really get some beefy flat wire builds in there. In fact, the Bravo actually excels with those kinds of coils. I have had this tank for a few weeks now and I have tried many different coils, from simple Claptons all the way up to massive 3.5 mm ID Juggernaut coils. I like to run 3mm ID Framed Aliens in this tank. They seem to give me the best clouds and flavor.
Once your coils are in there and tightened down, you want to move them around a little bit and start clipping the ends of your lead. After you have your leads cut, you want to take your coiling rod and ensure proper placement of the coil. My recommendation is you put the coil right in front of that bottom airflow as close to it as you can without actually shorting. This will ensure that you get maximum flavor off of the Bravo RTA. After you have the proper coil placement, if you are running contact coils, you will want to pulse your coils lightly and get out all of the hot spots.
After you have the coil placement down and exactly where you want it, it is time to wick the Bravo. Simply pull your cotton through the center of the coil and cut it right next to the o’ring that goes around the base. This will give you the perfect wick length for this RTA. After the cotton is cut, you simply tuck it into the wicking area very gently. Take care not to stuff the cotton in there. You want the cotton to fit snug but not too tightly. There has to be enough room there for your juice to flow through the wick. You do not want to choke off your wick. After the coil is wicked, you simply juice your cotton up and reassemble the tank. Fill the tank up after it is reassembled and you are ready to vape.
HOW DOES IT VAPE?
The airflow on the Bravo is very smooth and it does have that swooshy type of feel but at the same time, it is a little bit on the noisy side. It’s not noisy enough to make you stop using the RTA but it does have that slight Darth Vader type of sound to it. The air flow is what I would call a slightly restrictive type of airflow that is definitely geared more towards flavor while still maximizing cloud production. It’s actually a good compromise between a loose cloud chucking sort of airflow and a slightly restrictive flavor sort of airflow. Personally, it’s right up my alley and I really do enjoy it.
Because of the way this tank is made, I like running my builds just under .2 ohms. I find that I get the best vape when I run those types of coils in the Bravo. Right now, I have some 3 mm ID SS Framed Aliens in there ohming out at .18 ohms and I am at 90 watts on my Squid Industries Double Barrel. The vape I get off of this build is just beautiful. It is extremely cloudy and extremely flavorful. The flavor and the clouds definitely make up for the slightly noisy airflow. This Bravo can chuck clouds with some of the best RTA’s on the market and the flavor is definitely on point.
While most of the times I do run this RTA with the airflow wide open, I have found that if you cut it down to below 50%, the flavor definitely intensifies. I have also run this RTA with the AFC open just a sliver and the flavor definitely gets better. The clouds might suffer a little but if you’re a flavor chaser, you’re definitely going to want to cut the air flow down on this tank. If you’re a cloud chaser and you like really good flavor, then just leave the thing wide open.
WHAT WOULD HAVE MADE IT BETTER:
- Quieter Airflow
Like I said before, it’s not a big deal. This airflow is only slightly noisy but it is noisy enough for me to make a note of it. It’s definitely not noisy enough to be a deal breaker. Truth be told, there’s not a lot wrong with this tank, so I really had to nitpick in this section.
This tank is what I would call a great compromise between clouds and flavor. I’m the type of vaper that likes to be at anywhere between 60 and 100 watts. My sweet spot is probably right around 85 watts. I’m really not comfortable going above 100 watts because I just don’t enjoy it up there. With this type of tank, I can put a build in there that I truly enjoy at the wattages that I really enjoy.
I consider myself one of those middle-of-the-road vapers. I’m no tootle puffer but at the same time, I’m not a high wattage cloud chucker. For me, this tank just checked off all the boxes that I needed it to check off. I get great cloud production and I get great flavor with that cloud production. If I want intensified flavor, all I have to do is shut down the airflow to just below 50%. Yeah, my clouds may not be massive but the flavor will definitely be better.
This is definitely one of Wotofo’s better efforts in a long time. They’ve been coming out with some good tanks but they’ve all been kind of meh, nothing really special. Yeah, I know people are going to say, ‘but Deuces what about the SMM?’ Yeah, that tank was ok but in my opinion, it was kind of hyped up. This tank is legit, no hype, it just performs. This one is definitely machined a lot better and you can tell a ton of thought went into the design of this particular tank. This is a step up for Wotofo. It’s a performer and it is built extremely well.
Now It’s Available :
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